Noted springs and wells around Tunbridge Wells: The Chalybeate spring and the Burnt House Spring

Undoubtedly the most famous healing water in Kent and perhaps one of the most well known in Europe is The Chalybeate Spa. Its discovery can be outlined briefly as follows, being uncovered by chance in 1609, by Robert Dudley, whilst he was riding back to London, stopping by a densely wooded hollow, beside a stream. Here he noticed a reddish-rust coloured pool. Dudley being a hard drinker was familiar with the fashionable European spa waters, and noticed a resemblance! Indeed, upon drinking some, he found that the water was also similar in taste. Realising its potential, he took a sample to his physician for analysis. This showed traces of vitriol ferrous sulphate, then considered to have some medicinal power. Such vindicating news pleased Dudley, who returned the following summer to undertake a treatment, after which he found himself healthier. Perhaps the water was lengthened his life, for he lived to 84! Fortunately, exploiting the spring was easy, as it lay within the Abergavenney Estate, who being an acquaintance of Dudley, and subsequently the pool was cleared and cleaned out, and a well sunk, to improve the quality. This work revealed that the waters arose from seven springs.

By 1619, the whole area was enclosed in, and marked off with wooded rails. Already, it was much frequented, but a lack of suitable accommodation, affected trade. Even Henrietta Maria, visiting for six weeks in 1630 to recover after the birth of the future Charles II, had to camp out at Bishop’s Dun Common, like the rest of her court. This, and the increased interest as a result of a treatise extolling their virtues by a Dr. Rowse, heightened these accommodation problems, so Assembly room, walks and accommodation constructed and by the late 1600s stalls and facilities and a season between May and October established. As the original 1780 Bath House only administered cold baths, new heated baths were constructed in 1802-4. The remains of this later bathhouse are now beneath Boots the Chemist. A Victorian pump room was constructed at the south end of the Pantiles, with a fountain, reading and retiring rooms. These would appear to have been too late a development, soon falling into disrepair, finally being demolished in 1964. Despite its decline, the waters can indeed are still served by a dipper from Easter to October.

Other relics of the spa’s can be found such as one of the earliest cold baths and one of the original brick-lined shaft wells. The cold bath is now dry and filled with litter, but the well may have some trace of water. Beside each are suitable plaques describing their histories:

“COLD BATH Probably mid-18th Century. Near the site of the Dipper’s Houses which are shown on Kip’s engraving of 1718 and on John Bowra’s maps of 1738 and 1739.

CHALYBEATE SPRING: Probably one of the seven springs discovered c. 1606. The lower stonework is c.1700: the brick dome early 19th century. The site is marked on John Bowra’s map of 1738 and 1739, and archaeological and documentary evidence suggests medicinal use.”

A local legend records the origins of the waters. The Devil, appearing as a beautiful woman, tried to distract the St. Dunstan at his forge, being far too clever and pious to be put off he saw his cloven hooves, turned around and clasped his nose with his red hot tongs. Flying off in a furious rage he found the springs  and upon cooling his nose produced its iron waters. A story also associated with the Roaring spring in Sussex.

On the road to Pembury was another attempt to exploit the chalybeate springs of the area. Called Burnt House spring  Britton in their 1816 Descriptive Sketches of Tunbridge Wells and the Calverley Estate notes it is:

“…situated in a little dell, in a romantic spot to the right of the road leading from Tunbridge Wells to Pembury. It is a good chalybeate, and the iron is in a state of carbonate. This spring rises rapidly into a stone basin, placed in the centre of a circular excavation, about ten feet in diameter and six or eight feet deep, which is bricked round, and with the remains of stone steps leading down to the basin at the bottom. This spring, therefore, has clearly been, at some time, made use of as medicinal water. It was accidentally discovered choked up with rubbish. The country about Tunbridge Wells abounds with springs of this character.”

When the estate was developed into Dunorlan Park Henry Reed the spring was retained and improved. The site, possibly with the fabric oldest in the area, arises in a square chamber with a circular basin surrounded by bricks; the water then flows down a channel into as drain. Four large stone steps lead down into the chamber and the hole is brick lined. In a way this is probably what the original development of the chalybeate spa was.

Taken from Holy wells and healing springs of Kent

Holy well or mineral spring? St Catherine’s Well near Southwell

 

The small hamlet on the edge of Southwell called Westhorpe, has the supposed remains of St. Catherine Well. I state supposed it because this is one of those sites which may have been a post Reformation pretend holy well.  There is evidence of the site having a chapel;  earliest record of a religious institution here being in 1482 when a chapel was erected dedicated to the saint. When researching the site for my book on Holy wells and healing springs I was unable to locate this source

’to build a chapel close to the well called St. Catherine’s Well in honour of St. Catherine the Virgin and an indulgence for five years to all those helping to build the chapel’.

Of its post-Reformation history William Dickinson in his 1819 the Antiquities and history of the town of Southwell notes that a Mr. Burton of Norwood Park built a house and bath at the site in 1720. This is found down Bath Lane which remembers the fact that it site was once developed as such. He appears to have used the saint as support for its properties as:

“Over the head of the fountain was a plate, on which some Latin verses were inscribed, much to the honour of the tutelary saint, and the reputation of the water.”

Its waters were said to be a cure for rheumatism being particularly cold as noted by Richard Shilton in his 1818 History of Southwell:

“This water, which was peculiarly cold, was renowned in the days of yore, for its many virtues ; perhaps it did possess and doubtless would have retained them to this day.”

It is thought that the cottage and barn at the site may be the remains of this spa venture, although, I was informed by the occupant that the barn had mediaeval features such as moulded features, suggesting perhaps this was the remains of the chapel. When Robert Morrell in his 1988 Holy wells of Nottinghamshire visited he was also told that a bath-like structure with steps down was located nearby, but an exact location was unknown, and the current occupants were similarly unaware of it when I visited. However, I have subsequently learned that it is just below the well head but I have not returned to check.  This was probably a relic of its Burton’s exploitation. This appears to have been a brief period, for as Shilton (1818) notes:

 “…would have retained them to this day, had there been the due accompanyments (sic) for luxurious lounge, intrigue and scandal commodiously attached.”

St. Catherine’s Well itself is found between Bath Cottage and the barn. It arises in a brick-lined square structure capped with a broken slab. This sits on an older  has the appearance of calcareous rock; although any petrifying properties are not noted by previous authors. When first visited the well house was dry, however, a more visit in spring showed a considerable flow (despite a dry winter). It flowed from a clay pipe within the well house and leaves through a smaller pipe set into the calcified part and then down to the dumble below. In this dumble appear to be some dressed stone which may have been part of the original structure. Beside the well on the bank above is a small slate monument which records:

“A chapel dedicated to St. Catherine existed here in medieval times but it is thought to have fallen into disuse at the dissolution. A spring and well with reputed healing properties near the chapel was still patronised in the 1800s by those seeking relief from rheumatism. The present bath cottage was erected on the site of the chapel. D.J Hall Southwell.”

The grounds are private although I was welcomed when I visited, there is a path the other side of the site of the well which may give a better view of the site however.

Springs and wells of the South Downs by Bruce Osbourne Source New Series Issue 6 (Summer 1998)

Shoreham – The Magic Cave TQ 213054

On the A 283 approximately 100 metres north of the Worthing-Shoreham railway bridge, near the town centre, is the site of a lost grotto containing a chalybeate spring in the former Swiss Gardens. In the second half of the 19th century Shoreham by Sea was a popular tourist resort for day trippers and holiday makers. One venue for the pleasure seekers was the renowned Swiss Gardens. They were opened in 1838 by James Britton Bailey, a local ship builder. The Gardens and Assembly Rooms quickly became popular. The success was further enhanced when the Gardens were sold to a Mr Goodchild in 1863. A whole range of leisure activities were on offer including boating on the lakes, rifle shooting, bowls, fishing, dancing etc. Everything was contained in the taste-fully laid out gardens which included a chalybeate spring. A grotto containing a chalybeate spring surrounded by fragrant roses and overflowing with sweet smelling honeysuckle and other odiferous plants and shrubs lay in a secluded part of the garden, the en-trance to the grotto being guarded by large effigies of those legendary British gi-ants, Gog and Magog; cleverly apt perhaps, as these huge guardians of the overgrown entrance to this ‘magic cave’ were supposed to be the wicked daughters of the Emperor Diocletian, who were captured and kept chained and hidden by Brutte. However, if the visitor baulked at the thought of entering the grotto it could at least be externally viewed to some extent from the pictur-esque ‘Bridge of Steps’ spanning the stream. Close by, those who wished could pass through a low door covered with more mystical characters to consult with the discreet and esoteric ‘Lady of the Oracle’ – but only between 11.00 a.m. and 1.00 p.m. and 2.00 p.m. and 6.00 p.m. In the 1890s the Gardens changed hands several times. By 1903 the Gardens had gained a bad reputation and were not the place to be seen in. Eventually they closed in 1905. Today the area is still identifiable as a lake and gardens behind the Swiss Gardens public house. The smaller of the two lakes is now gone and a large part of what was once the gardens is now a modern housing development. The grotto has disappeared together with the spring. References: Sharp R, 1992, ‘The Swiss Gardens, Shoreham by Sea’, Sussex Industrial History, Issue 22, Sussex Industrial Archaeology Society, pp.2-8.

Willingdon – Bone Well TQ 588021

On the side of the road through the village of Willingdon is the Bone Well or Wish Hill Pump. Erected in 1880, the building incorporates cows’ knuckle bones set in flints and is the only example of such decoration in Sussex. Other buildings incorporating bones can be found in such places as Cley, Norfolk. Originally the panels were filled completely with bones but have largely been replaced with flints over time. The present bones came from the village slaughterhouse and include both metacarpals and metatarsals coming from the feet of the fore and hind legs respectively. Bones of both male and female animals were used. The pump is located on the junction of the Lower Chalk and Upper Greensand where a spring rises. The water, besides being collected in the traditional buckets, has also been collected frequently in bottles. The water which flowed from the pump also fed nearby watercress beds, the stream eventually flowing to Hampden Park about one mile away. The pump is sited on what was once the dipping hole spring. There are varying accounts of how bones came to be associated with the spring before the erection of the present pump house in 1880. A box of ephemera, some of which were over 100 years old came to light in the loft of the former home of Augustus Alfred Haylock, once headmaster of the village school. An item detailing the pump read: Visitors passing through Willingdon no doubt have noticed the ‘Bone Pump House’ [the 1880 structure]. In the early part of the eighteenth century a couple resided in a cottage [since demolished] behind the present pump house. The wife sold soup made from ox-heels and used the bones to build a well in her garden.

In 1880 William Broderick Thomas Esq had built the pump house, which he presented to the village. In its gable were the initials and the date, constructed from sheep’s knuckle bones. Others were employed to adorn the walls at each side, all arranged in tiers to complete this unique structure (Vine 1978, pp. 70-71). It was noted by Mr Haylock that the provider of the report was the great-great-grandson of the couple who lived in the cottage and who once made the ox-heel soup. An alternative variation of the legend, supplied by Lady Willingdon, is that an old woman once lived near the dell in Willingdon. She collected knuckle bones of sheep which were acquired from local butchers. In time she had collected sufficient to build a well and eventually a well house. Whichever of the above legends is true, when the new well house was built in 1880, cows’ knuckle bones were collected from the local slaughterhouse to perpetuate the use of bones in the structure. The bone-built walls rise to about three quarters of the total wall height, above this there being open timberwork supporting a tiled gabled roof. The building was lined with Minton blue- and yellow-glazed bricks with a D-shaped trough to collect the water. Col. William Broderick Thomas, mentioned above, was born in 1811 and died in 1898. He was the brother of Freeman Thomas and a successful landscape gardener. His initials once appeared in the front gable together with the date of construction. ‘The Townlands’ was his local address but he also held property in London. Today several nearby names testify to the once-important water source. ‘Spring Cottage’ exists above and opposite the pump, and ‘The Well Acres’ is a local house name derived from nearby field names.

References: Stevens P. 1988, Willingdon Village Pump’, Sussex Archaeological Collections V, 126, pp. 253-4. Vine W. J. 1978, Old Willingdon, Webb and Read, pp. 70-71.

Holy, healing and ritual waters of Catalonia: Caldes de Montbru

One of the most significant healing water sites in Catalonia is Caldes de Montbui which has a considerable pedigree its name Caldes clearly indicating its importance as a spa site. The Romans are believed to have been attracted to the site because of the hot thermal waters; the hottest apparently in Europe. They established thermal baths with areas dedicated to various treatments and treatments continue in a modern fashion. These baths were believed to have established in 130BC and continued until the middle of the 17^th century.

The Roman baths

At this time the plague was raging and so to curb the spread all bath houses were closed and it was never reopened and was used in the 17^th century as a prison. However, fortunately the pool was preserved in the basement of the University of Caldes which was removed in the 1950s and the bath restored. During the excavations, a statue of Apollo was discovered. What remains today is the remains of a thermal pool which is only a section of a greater complex of thermal baths which extended over a wide area where the old hospital now called Thermalia, the Rius and Broquetas Spa hotels exist. Overall, there were eleven areas of the complex. The pool is dry, and is stepped all around and and is surrounded by red brick stone arches some worn and origin others added during its restoration.

The spa revival

Although the Roman bath house was forgotten, the town revived its thermal waters in the first half of the 19^th century when the town was a major spa town and the leading spa in Catalonia and second only in the Iberian peninsula in terms of facilities. The museum retains features from this stage of the town’s spa heritage and one can see the old spa equipment, the treatment rooms and the pool and baths.

Hottest spring in Europe?

The main spring is called the Font del Lleó (the Lion Spring) so called because the water issues from a lion’s mouth. It is one of a number of springs in the town and by far the best known. It was built in 1581 and was renovated in 1822 with the base being the oldest part. It was restored again and improved in 1927 when a Manuel Raspall introduced the lion, those giving the spring its current name and it became a symbol of the town. Whatever its previous name was I have been unable to ascertain. It is certainly one of the most ornate well heads in the region and a prominent feature of the old town centre. The spring water is enclosed in a trapezoid enclosure with steps from each side and then a single flight to the springhead. The spring flows at some speed even at high summer and flows out of what looks like a fish and is so worn it may be one of the earliest parts. Two ionic columns flank each side and above the whole structure is a prostrate lion.

The water is indeed remarkably hot, flowing at great speed at a temperature of 74º C and is so hot that it steams considerably. The water being so hot that it is conveyed to “safareigs públics” which are 19^th century, communal washing houses which are still used although on my visit I did not witness it as apparently it happens early in the morning.

Felixstowe Spa one of Britain’s last spas

Extracted from a forthcoming book on Holy wells and healing springs of Suffolk

Felixstowe had an attempt to develop a mineral spring as a spa. Postcards advertised the spring showing a small white shed at the base of the cliffs and a sign proclaiming spa. Play bills state that:

“Felixstowe Spa – Natural Medicinal Water from a spring at the foot of a boring 177 feet deep below the London Clay and Red Crag beds.”

A Dr. J. E. Taylor states in the advert of the water that:

“It contains dissolved Chloride of Sodium, Carbonate of Lime, Magnesia, Iron, Sulphur, and Phosphates. The last is an important element as it makes the water a capital medicine for those suffering from nervous deposition, depression and overwork.”

He also stated that the:

“the water belongs to the class of Muriated Saline and in that class that includes the celebrated waters of Baden-Baden and Wiesbaden”

And that:

“The water is obtainable direct from the well, or mixed with Carbonic Acid and sold in large and small bottles.”

This local water analyst states in 1905:

“At the foot of Hamilton Terrace Cliffs, there is a valuable spa well with pump affixed, where visitors can partake of a water which contains valuable medicinal qualities being a gentle aperient, anti-dyspeptic and anti-gout water. Presently the pump room is only a temporary wooden structure, but the district council are contemplating the laying out of grounds, and the erection of a pump room and lounge worthy of the Spa. Parliamentary powers Act 1902. Thus Act gives the Town Council power to erect ‘buildings, apparatus and appliances for the supply and drinking of the waters from the said medicinal spring, and for the advantage, entertainment and amusement of persons resorting thereto’. The Act also confers to the council all the rights of bottling and selling the water, the building of concert halls on the land adjoining, and the construction of medicinal and sea-water baths.”

Thus in 1897, the Felixstowe Spa and Winter Garden Company planned to develop a public garden and ran a competition, won by a Brightwen Binyon, to design a pavilion and garden, and a winner. However it was never built and instead the Felixstowe and Walton Urban District Council in 1902 laid a garden with artificial stonework presumably by James Pulhama and Sons enclosed by a granite sea wall.

In 1909 the area was further developed with terraces, paths, shelters, and a spa pavilion. This was destroyed by a bomb in the Second World War but rebuilt in 1950. What involvement the spa and how it was used during this period is unclear.

Interestingly there appear to be two sites both located in the Edwardian landscape Spa gardens. One is called the Wishing Well and it appears to be spring fed and flows through various Pulmannite rocks pieces into a small roughly metre square  It is unclear whether this shares the same properties as the Dripping Well which arises close to the entrance of the Spa Pavillion; which appears to be the said mineral spring. It produces a considerable flow and fills a large oblong pool in the shadow of the Spa Pavilion. These appear to be the only watery relics of one of England’s last spa attempts. 

Unusual happenings Mary smiles in the Ukraine Source Source New series No 1 Autumn 1994

From time immemorial, the Ukrainian nation has shown a tender and filial devotion towards the Mother of God. In 1037, the grand prince of Kiev, Yaroslas the Wise, consecrated his capital and his country to Mary, and thousands of churches, monasteries and chapels were placed under the protection of the Ma-donna. They sheltered hundreds of miraculous Icons. The Virgin is the Queen of the Ukraine. After the occupation of the western territo-ries of the Ukraine in the course of the Second World War, in March 1946 the Russians mar-tyred the whole Ukrainian Catholic Church, by blood and the sword. Those who remained lived on in the catacombs. Driven to fury by the active and passive resistance of the Ukrainian nation, they unleashed a new attack against the centres of the Marian cult, and destroyed many venerated images of Our Lady in the Ukraine. However, for a long time they did not dare to attack the miraculous icon of Our Lady of Zarvanytzia. They had closed the sanctuary, but they had not touched the icon. So the local inhabitants spontaneously decided to keep watch over the holy image, day and night. In the summer of 1957, a detachment of armed police entered the village, invaded the sanctuary, and despite the lively opposition of the inhabitants, carried off the icon by force. The church bells were rung to summon the help of neighbouring villages but it was too late. However, underneath the chapel of Zarvan-ytzia there was a source of water known as “the well”. On the same day that the icon was confiscated by the authorities, an absolutely identical image of Our Lady was seen reflected in this spring. Everyone saw the face of the Madonna in the water, marked with the deepest sadness. The news of this miracle rapidly spread throughout the whole of the Ukraine, and thousands of pilgrirhs began to pour into Zarvanytzia from all parts of the country. The authorities were disturbed by this enormous upsurge of faith in the people, and despatched a commission of enquiry to the shrine from Kiev. The replica of the miraculous icon re-appeared in the water of the spring, and the members of the official commission of enquiry were com-pelled to testify publicly that they had seen the reflection of the said icon on the water.

During the summer of 1958 a second commis-sion of enquiry was sent to the shrine, this time direct from Moscow. Not long after this visit, the Communist authorities ad-vised the people that the icon would be restored to its place. The pilgrimages of the faithful became even more numerous. Eventually, on 14 October 1958, the long-awaited day arrived when the Soviet authorities returned the icon to the people. The Ukrainians re-installed it in its place of honour in the church of Zarvanytzia, and the Catholics considered this restitution of the icon as a great victory of their faith which the Madonna confirmed by a prodigy. This information was sent to us through the Ukrainian emigration centres of Europe and America. We know some people in England and Philadelphia who have in their possession pho-tographs, sent to them directly from Zarvan-ytzia, which were taken on 14 October 1958. (B.Kurilas, C.SS.R., Notre Dame des Temps Nouveaux )

Extracted from Miracle of Mao; 1988. By kind permission of Augustine Publishing Company, Chulmleigh, Devon.lX18 711L.

A Derbyshire field trip – wells of the Ashbourne area

ASHBOURNE

Binnall (1940) notes an unnamed spring in the grounds of the Mansion, the home of Dr. Johnson’s friend, Dr. Taylor. Its waters were said to be good for eyes and was still frequented in the last quarter of the 19th Century. This would certainly be the same as the site called by Hollick (1967) as the Eye well (SK 174 463) which has given its name to the cottage which abuts the Mansion. This was originally called the Rood well, named after the Holy Cross Chantry which was in St. Oswald’s Church, although there was a chantry house nearby. The site was dressed until the 18th Century. It still exists arising it appears beneath Eyewell cottage, apparently once the potting shed of the Mansion. Half of the well lays covered in the kitchen area, and half outside. The outside section a semi-circular four layered red brick well. I was shown by the owner that the spring itself arises beneath an older red brick arch and appears clear and deep.

The church guide mentions a 30 feet Holy Well (SK 176 464) beneath the church’s tower which they claim was sacred to the druids! It is not accessible nor does the claim appear to predate the guidebook. Are they confusing a site with the one above?

Binnall (1940) notes a sulphur spring, called Mudge Meadow Well (SK 212 473) arising in the said field in nearby hamlet of Sturston. The water was reputed to cure fits. Its site is marked on the 1844 OS map in a field by the river as Mudge Meadow well (spr) near Corley Farm, the 1900 edition loses the site but retains the meadow’s name. Investigating the site, I found a number of possible contenders but could not confirm the exact spot marked on the O/S.

HULLAND WARD

The parish is made up of a number of smaller hamlets. Millington Green boasts two sites. One of these may be those referred to by Pilkington (1789) describing a spring not far from Wirksworth, on the road leading to Ashbourne, which contained sulphur and iron and which was also said to be impregnated with salts. The most likely candidate is the Spa Well (SK 478 264). Binnall (1940) notes that this is a chalybeate spring, however field work disagrees with this as it is clearly a sulphur spring. This is more in agreement with the Federation of Women’s Institute who state there were two sulphur and two chalybeate springs. Their report certainly suggests 31 that sulphur well is the same as the Spa well as the traditions are the same, the account suggesting that it even steamed in frosty weather, Binnall states it never froze. He also accounts that it was once resorted to for skin complaints. The site may have been a holy well as a lost chapel was located in the vicinity in the 13th Century and attached to St. Oswald’s church Ashbourne. The well still exists being located on Lane End Farm and arises between squared stones forming a small square well close by a foot bridge; it is covered with a removable metal grid. The Federation of Women’s Institute state that it made strong and well flavoured tea making the wartime ration going a long way. Cole (1938) notes that it was much attended, with people staying in local houses and that there was a plan to enclose it but the presence of a public right of way prevented the move.

On the 1880 O/S is marked a Chalybeate Spring, this is now marked as W (disused) (SK 262 477) it can be found near to the start of a footpath. It is hidden beneath two concrete slabs, but these can be raised to show a two foot or so by one-foot rectangular pool lined with old bricks filled by a pipe at some considerable rate from the north. The water is very ferruginous. Of the other sites mentioned by the Federation may be the springs which arise towards Hulland Ward village centre in private woodlands close to the footpath towards Millington Green. Another possible site is Jenny Well (SK 282 467) whether this well should be noted here is not clear, although the name suggestive of goblin, although it could record a local name. Despite being tanked on side of the hedge, the spring still fills a stone trough of some age.

One of the last spas of English – Vange Spa or Cash’s Well

This is a fascinating site, for the Vange spa (TQ 700 863) represents the last attempt of establishing a spa in Essex, and one of the last in England. The well lays near a wood on Brickhouse Farm, Fobbing, on the border of the Vange parish. Its discovery was by accident: the farmer had thought that the spring water had a peculiar taste, and so decided not to use it. During a drought he was finally forced to utilise the spring and surprisingly found his animals thriving. This tempted him to have a sample tested by a Mr. Cash. This analysis showed that the water had higher magnesium sulphate content than the nearby Hockley spa, and better quality in regards of its bacterial and organic purity.

The news of its opening made a front page splash in 1920. A 1924 account states that it was for: ‘all rheumatoid complaints, stomach troubles, nervous disorders.’ The advert shows a picture of the said well. Orders spread and the water was sold at 2s 3d a bottle. However despite such a promising start, by late 1920s the business had disappeared, despite an account of a man taking some water and throwing away his crutches! Cash built a remarkable octagonal well house as a pump room with a nearby bottling house.  This was perhaps due to insufficient funds and lack advertising in a time when modern medicine was taking over and folk medicine on the decline. Finally when the owner died, Kruschen salts bought the property and although they continued for a while it was soon closed. When the stopped extracting water is unclear, the octagonal building started to crumble but it is thought that the proximity of the West Ham TB Hospital which could have contaminated the water.

When researching for my holy wells and healing springs of Essex I had heard reports that the site has been thoughtlessly demolished parts I was happy to see during my field work that parts of the still exists, if forlornly in One Tree Hill woods. The bottling shed was demolished and only traces can now be seen. The Temple Pump house’s roof has fallen in much of its wall has gone and some of the columns. The wells rather clogged with rubbish and twigs still had, if rather murky, water in them. Whether it could be saved is difficult to say as it would take a lot to restore. There was a plan afoot to have what remains preserved in the mid 2010s but again this was unsuccessful. At least some information could help. But no  so there is nothing so this last great attempt at a British spa slowly disappears into the woodlands. How long it will be there is unclear it has certainly become more derelict in the 30 years since I saw it which can be seen by comparing recent photos with those here.

 

From fame to forgotten – Scarborough Spaw spring

Scarborough is well known for its impressive seafront which typifies the Victorian sea bathing craze and one of the notable buildings in this vista is the Spa. The delightful building, now a concert venue, has rather obscured the real spa location which surprisingly survives not far away from it.

The spring was discovered, as often happens, by accident by a Mrs Farrer, whose husband was one time, Bailiff of Scarborough, in 1626 discovered some springs at the south of Scarborough beneath the cliffs. Tasting it she noticed that it tasted bitter and that the rocks were stained a reddish brown and recognising such waters as being healing she told friends after finding the water had made her feel better.

It soon received attention of those interested in such springs and in the book Scarbrough Spaw, or, A description of the nature and vertues of the spaw at Scarbrough in Yorkshire. Also a treatise of the nature and use of water in general, and the several sorts thereof, as sea, rain, snow, pond, lake, spring, and river water, with the original causes and qualities. Where more largely the controversie among learned writers about the original of springs, is discussed. To which is added, a short discourse concerning mineral waters, especially that of the spaw by Robert Wittie in around 1660. His analysis showed that the water was rich in Magnesium sulphate. He stated that

“some above an hundred miles to drink of it, preferring it before all other medicinal waters they had formerly frequented. Nay, I have met with some that had been at the Germane Spaws, … who prefer this for its speedy passage both by seige and urine before them.”

Being a local man who said he had twenty years knowledge personally and from others of the spring and perhaps in cahoots with local hotels he suggested:

^“I think it much better if a disease be rebellious, that the Patient after a continuance at the Spaw a month or five weeks, do leave off the waters a while, and return to his ordinary Diet and state of living, and then after such respite given to nature, apply himself to the waters again.”

Thus, he suggested the development of the Summer season: mid-May to mid-September. Soon people came and by 1700 the first Spa House was built on or near the spring. It was only a wood hut where the dipper would stay and sell and display waters. However, water was also bottled and sold further away. The town appointed a governor of the spa and it believed that Dickie Dickinson was appointed the first one. His role was to oversee money collection and keeping law and order. Unfortunately in 1737 a landslip destroyed it and lost the springs. But in 1739 a new source was established and a new saloon with sea views and steps up to the wells were established. Thus the spa’s popularity continued. Disaster struck again in 1836 and the spa was rebuilt in a more extravagant style with famed Victorian architect Joseph Paxton designing concert hall. By the later ends of the 1800s, less people visited the spa and the main draw was sea bathing, the Spa pavilion survived as it does today ad a major venue as it does today…and the spring fell into obscurity.

The spring today is found beside the steps down to the beach. In fact there appear to be two spring heads one in the middle and another on the beach level. The one in the middle of steps arises in a brick arch and arises from the mouth of a rather fine small carved head with a pipe inserted in its mouth. There is just a perceivable flow, and the brickwork is stained around it. There are two plaques, the first one guides the curious down, reads:

The second one reads:

The spring head further down I assume is the overflow outflow and/or used for animals. A plaque on this simply reads: ‘not fit for drinking.’ Sadly, like many spa waters this is the modern way and it always seems a shame that this is the end for such spas which brought hundreds flocking to see their waters…!

Holy and healing springs of Stamford, Lincolnshire

Being a noted aged town Stamford claims its fair share of ancient wells. A number of wells appear to share dedications with a nearby church and so it is unclear whether the names were obtained as a consequence of their proximity, all have been lost.. A map of the town by John Speed, 1611 features ‘S. Peter’s Well and S. Maryes Well. Butcher’ 1647 Survey and Antiquitie of the Towne of Stamford however is the main source who notes three wells: St. George’s Well, St. Clement’s Well and All Hallowes Well. There is a St. John’s Well associated with St. John’s Church.

More is noted of St. Thomas’s Well, of which Francis Peck in his 1727 History of Stanford repeats a story, originally told to him by his father, about Samuel Wallace, a crippled shoemaker of Stamford. Wallace was instructed on how to cure his sickness by a strange old man who mysteriously came and went on Whitsunday 1659, and who refused an offer of food, saying:

 ‘that he almost never drank anything but water, and that the water he drank was sometimes the water of St. Thomas’s well. That well, said my father, was the well you know in such a place. I heard him describe the place, but being then very young, can only remember it was somewhere without Stanford on the east, not far from the Uffington road. I have since enquired of several persons, but they can none of them tell of any such well’.

A church in Stamford was dedicated to St Thomas. There are springs found at TF 054 072, TF 054 072 and TF 058 071 along the footpath and disused Welland canal so one of these could be the likely contender.

Stamford’s Spa or Iron Well (TF 018 060) is a delightful and little known survival, so named because of its chalybeate waters. It was according to Thompson (1914) an open spring until 1864 when the Mayor of Stamford covered it with its present structure which is grade II listed. This is a circular stone onion shaped cupola about four feet high and sixteen feet round, which has on it the inscription ‘John Paradise Esquire Mayor 1864.’

Beeby Thompson’s 1914 Peculiarities of springs and wells of Northamptonshire notes that the spring was beneficial for skin diseases and eye problems and people used to fetch water to use in their houses, but today appears little regarded. Mrs Gutch and Mabel Peacock, Examples of printed folklore concerning Lincolnshire, Folklore Society, County Folklore Vol V, 1908 state:

“Tradition recounts that a religious house inhabited by pious women once stood near this holy well, and that its waters then had the power of restoring sight to the blind. It is still a wishing well. You wish, and drop a pin into it.”

It is curious that they call it a holy well so it maybe they are describing one of the former sites especially as it is called the Spa on old maps. Interestingly, Bath house can be found not far from the Iron Well with its name painted on the front wall. Built in 1923 it is Gothic building of two storeys with two pinnacles and central carved pinnacles and gothic glazed windows in chamfered reveals. Although now a private residence it apparently still retains its baths apparently, but I was unable to ascertain this. Incidentally there is another Bath house in Burleigh Park although this is strictly speaking in Northamptonshire and beyond this volume. Burleigh Park also boasted a chalybeate spring or Spa. Thomas Short’s 1734 Short The Natural Experimental, and Medicinal History of the Mineral Waters of Derbyshire, Lincolnshire, and Yorkshire, only makes passing note of it stating that it was a ‘product of iron stone’ and Thompson (1914) found no one in the locale who could verify a location and maybe it is linked to the above.

Various references in the 14th century note a Sevenwells which is perhaps significant. It was granted to the nuns of St. Michael but details are not forthcoming where it was.